Croda Personal Care

DuraQuench IQ & IQ-SA -  Intelligent Hydration


Discover an innovative approach to effective moisturization through Croda’s moisturizing
 complex, DuraQuench IQ. Its dual mechanism optimizes skin moisturization by the formation of an intelligent structural layer on the surface of the skin, and regulates water loss from within by reinforcing the skin’s natural barrier.

Please also see DuraQuench IQ SA which is JSQI and Chinese INCI approved. There are no statistical differences in performance between DuraQuench IQ SA and DuraQuench IQ.

Major Benefits: 

  • Long lasting hydration
  • Smoother, more radiant skin 
  • Protects against the drying effects of soaps and detergents
  • Visible improvement in skin dryness

Unique Features:

  • Temperature and humidity responsive
  • Improves inherent skin barrier function
  • Delivers superior moisturization via dual action technology
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Hydration Performance

DuraQuench IQ is able to significantly improve the visual signs of skin dryness as demonstrated in the following Moisture Efficacy Test (MET). The results of the study show that the inclusion of DuraQuench IQ in the formulation led to a significant improvement in skin dryness versus the control formulation on day 12 and day 14 of the study, as seen below.

Following the treatment phase, panelists entered the regression phase where they stopped applying the test formulations. The skin treated with DuraQuench IQ remained significantly more moisturized than the skin treated with the control formulation on days 1, 2 and 3 of the
regression phase.

Duraquench FP Body            Pic1

Not only does DuraQuench IQ outperform the control at relieving the visible signs of skin dryness, it performs at a significantly faster rate throughout the treatment phase. DuraQuench IQ also significantly outperforms the control during the regression phase with its ability to
maintain an improvement in the visual signs of skin dryness. This shows that DuraQuench IQ imparts long lasting hydration of the skin that continues even when DuraQuench IQ is no longer applied.

The results of the MET show that the DuraQuench IQ formulation is more efficient at relieving the visual signs of skin dryness than the control.

 

 

Improvement in Skin Barrier Function

DuraQuench IQ improves inherent skin barrier function, which can be seen in the results of a facial MET. Panelists entered a 4 day dry down phase, washing their faces with soap, while stopping the use of all moisturizing products and any cosmetic products. Following this, the 14 day treatment phase consisted of applying the DuraQuench IQ and control formulation to each side of the face, respectively, while continuing to wash the faces with soap. This was followed by a 5 day regression phase where panelists continued to wash their faces with soap without application of the test moisturizing creams.

Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) readings were taken on each side of the face on days 0 (baseline), 7 and 14 of the treatment phase, and on days 2 and 5 of the regression phase. The results below show the comparative net change in TEWL to baseline for DuraQuench IQ in comparison to the control. The results for day 7 and day 14 show a significant difference in TEWL for the DuraQuench IQ formulation in comparison to the control.


Duraquench FP Body Pic2 

Adhesive D-Squame discs, stained with multiple stain solution prior to analysis, were used to measure superficial skin dryness on days 0 (baseline), 7 and 14 of the treatment phase, and on days 2 and 5 of the regression phase. The results show a significant difference between the DuraQuench IQ and control on day 14 of the treatment phase and on day 2 of the regression phase.

DuraQuenchFPBodyPic3

 

Temperature and Humidity Responsive

In order to evaluate how DuraQuench IQ responds to varying temperatures and humidities, a thin film of both the DuraQuench IQ and control formulations were dried onto a porous skin substitute (Vitrocorneum). Samples were analyzed using the water vapor transport rate (WVTR) method at 20°C, 32°C and 40°C ( ±1.5°C) at 30%, 50% and 80% (± 5%RH ) relative humidity respectively. (32°C represents skin temperature.)

The results of the WVTR show that DuraQuench IQ is able to regulate the level of water that evaporates at varying levels of humidity as seen below. The formulation with DuraQuench IQ reduced water loss significantly versus the control formulation at 30% and 50% relative humidity at 20°C, 32°C and 40°C. Results at 40°C shown below.


Duraquench FP Body Pic4

This data shows that DuraQuench IQ can impart temperature and humidity responsive properties for optimized moisturization benefits. Water vapor transport rate was significantly lower with DuraQuench IQ than the control formulation.

Intelligent Structure

X-ray diffraction can be used to give an indication of the lipid structure that an emulsion forms on the skin. Wide angle x-ray diffraction (WAXD)  provides information about the smaller structural units in a sample, such as the lateral packing in a lamellar phase. Small angle x-ray diffraction (SAXD) provides information about larger structural units in a sample, such as the periodicity in a stack of bilayers (bilayer to bilayer distance). In this study, the DuraQuench IQ and control formulations were compared using WAXD and SAXD.

The results from the WAXD show that the control sample with 1 hour drying at 32°C has two peaks, one at 0.47nm (a) and one at 0.40nm (b). In comparison, the DuraQuench IQ sample with 1 hour drying at 32°C has two prominent peaks in a more tightly packed 0.42nm (c) and 0.38nm (d) orthorhombic phase. This repeat distance is very similar to that of the natural skin lipids, 0.41nm and 0.37nm. The lateral packing of membranes determines permeability which explains why the residual phase from the DuraQuench IQ sample was more effective at controlling TEWL than the control.

Consumer Sensory Perception

In order to evaluate consumer perception of DuraQuench IQ, a panel study was carried out and 31 panelists were asked to apply a formulation with and without 5% DuraQuench IQ to either side of their face respectively for 1 week. Panelists were asked to complete a pre- and post- study questionnaire. The results of the study show that 71% of panelists preferred the formulation containing DuraQuench IQ. Panelists also observed a significant improvement in skin smoothness and skin radiance versus the control formulation.

The significant increase in skin smoothness and radiance seen using the DuraQuench IQ formulation can be linked to skin hydration as there is a correlation between the level of skin hydration and the amount of light absorbed or scattered by the skin. In dehydrated skin, an increased amount of light is scattered at the skin surface due to the raised edges of corneocytes, whereas in hydrated skin, more light penetrates into the deeper skin layers resulting in darker, more pinkish and more translucent skin.


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