Sulfate free solutions for the conscious consumer

What does sulfate-free mean?

The first important question is, what does sulfate-free actually mean? Sulfates are a class of anionic surfactants that typically act as detergents in cosmetic formulations such as facial cleansers, shampoos, and body washes. The most common of this type of ingredient used in personal care applications are sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). Their primary function is to deliver effective cleansing to the hair and skin which, combined with their great foaming performance, makes them popular ingredients for use in cleansing formulations. Sulfate-free pack claims are used as a way to inform consumers that sulfates such as SLS and SLES are not included as part of the ingredient listing.

What has driven the rise in sulfate-free claims?

In recent years, sulfates have developed a negative reputation, with the perception that they are too harsh and will strip the hair and skin of their natural oils, resulting in hair that is dry and brittle and skin that is dry and irritated. This has led to consumer appetite for milder cleansing agents. Combined with a general shift in the market towards bio-based ingredients and many traditional surfactants, including SLS and SLES, derived from petrochemical sources, demand for alternative ingredient solutions is increasing.   

Global market insights

There is no denying that the sulfate-free market is growing, with the number of personal care products launched with a sulfate-free claim steadily growing year on year around the globe. The value of sulfate-free surfactant market is also rising, with the likes of sarcosinate and taurate based surfactants growing at a higher rate compared to their SLS and SLES counterparts.

[1] Mintel GNPD - where claims matches “Sulphate/Sulfate Free”

Which consumers are seeking sulfate-free alternatives?

The growth in this market is really driven by consumer demand for sulfate-fee solutions. Although sulfate ingredients are not inherently bad for everyone (read our myth busting blog here to find out more), there are a growing number of consumers that are choosing to avoid the use of sulfates.Given their reputation as harsh cleansers that can dry out the skin, those with sensitive skin that is prone to irritation tend to seek milder alternatives that will not exacerbate any skin concerns they may have. This is also true for products targeted at babies or children, where milder formulations are favoured. With a greater emphasis than ever before on caring for your scalp health to maintain a healthy hair condition, sulfate-free claims in shampoos and other associated hair care products are on the rise, appealing to those with sensitive scalps. 

Consumers with specific hair types often seek sulfate-free options, particularly those with a fragile hair condition as a result of heat styling or colouring, alongside those with curly or coily hair that can be naturally more fragile and prone to breakage. Such hair types are inherently more “dry” and require intensive conditioning, so there is a perception that harsh cleansers such as sulfates will make the hair feel even more rough and difficult to manage. Ingredient-savvy consumers that like to examine ingredient listings to empower their purchasing decisions may also decide to avoid products containing sulfate ingredients.

What alternative ingredient solutions are available?

There are a number of sulfate-free surfactant options out there on the market today. Sulfates can offer many benefits in formulation; they are effective cleansers with excellent foaming properties, as well as being cost-effective ingredients that are very easy to formulate with. Therefore, there is not a direct ingredient replacement. Instead, a combination of different chemistries are often needed to achieve the same effects as those offered by sulfates.

Surfactant classes such as sarcosinates, taurates, betaines and sultaines are popular alternatives that can be used in various combinations to tailor the performance of a formulation.

At Croda we offer a range of sulfate-free surfactant options that offer a viable alternative to sulfates:

The Crodasinic range is a family of powerful anionic surfactants, produced from natural fatty acids and the amino acid, sarcosine. The Crodasinics represent a versatile range of surfactants with many interesting functional properties for personal care, including excellent detergency and foaming properties and the ability to work in synergy with other detergents.

As part of the taurate family of surfactants, the Adinol range offers mild anionic surfactants that offer excellent wetting, foaming, detergent and dispersing properties, whilst leaving a soft, pleasant after-feel on the skin.

The Crodateric range offers amphoteric surfactant options that fall under the betaine surfactant family. Crodateric CAB 30 is compatible with anionic, cationic and non-ionic surfactants and can be used in combination with other surfactants to enhance the mildness and foaming performance of a formulation.