Portfolio expansion: Tech & Nature combine for biotech success

Published by

Pascale Rossi Marketing Director, Sederma
Hannah Critchley Marketing Manager

Published on:

Tuesday 25th July 2023

According to the Organisation of Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD), biotechnology is defined as the ‘application of science and technology to living organisms, as well as parts, products and models thereof, to alter living or non-living materials for the production of knowledge, goods and services’. More simply, it is the application of scientific and technical advances in life science to develop commercial products.

The use of biotechnology in personal care is by no means a new development, but significant advancements in this field have meant that modern biotechnology now offers a novel route to manufacture for ingredients long heralded in skin care, such as ceramides, sphingolipids, and phospholipids.

women smiling and pointing to white brick wall background

Ceramides & Sphingolipids

We develop high purity, naturally derived bioactive ceramide and sphingolipids obtained by yeast fermentation. Their biomimetic structure similar to that of lipid components of human skin offers outstanding skin barrier improvement, moisturising, as well as numerous additional unique benefits.

Sphingolipids
Sphingolipids are biologically complex active lipids obtained by combining a fatty acid with a sphingosine base via an amide bond. They are amphiphilic structures consisting of a small polar head (hydrophilic) and two long non-polar saturated tail (hydrophobic).

Ceramides
Ceramides, a specific class of sphingolipids, are the most abundant lipids found in the stratum corneum. Alterations in ceramide content of the stratum corneum are associated with numerous skin disorders, extensive water loss, disturbance of skin homeostasis and disrupted barrier functions. It will lead to increased stress-induced micro-inflammations and in turn to accelerated ageing.

Application: Skin Barrier
The stratum corneum is our first line of defence and consists of corneocytes surrounded by multilamellar extracellular lipid membranes. It is described as a brick-and-mortar barrier that prevents excessive water loss from the body and entrance of undesired substances from the environment. To ensure this crucial protective function, the composition and organisation of the multilamellar lipids is highly specific. The main skin barrier lipids are ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol in an approximately equimolar ratio, with ceramides making 50 % by weight of those total lipids.

ceramide skin diagram illustration

Biotechnology: personal care market report

1.8 MB

Croda completes acquisition of Solus Biotech

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Ceramides & Sphingolipids Product Range:

Product Name	INCI Name	Benefits	Type
DS-CERAMIDE Y3O/ Y3S	Ceramide NP [Ceramide 3]	Strengthens skin barrier Anti-pollution Anti-ageing and wrinkle mitigation Moisturising skin with atopy and severely dry skin	Powder
DS-CERAMIDE AP	Ceramide AP [Ceramide 6II]	Strengthens skin barrier	Powder
DS-Phytosphingosine	Phytosphingosine	Enhances moisture content below skin barrier Skin regeneration Soothing effect Anti-inflammatory - Acne, A.D.	Powder
DS-TAPS	Tetraacetylphytosphingosine	Helps generate ceramide Effect of mitigating dark circles on the eyes	Powder
DS-CERAMix-V	Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Tetraacetylphytosphingosine, Glucosylceramide	Maximised efficacy multi-lamellar liquid crystal delivery Skin barrier, moisturising, anti-inflammation, dry sensitive skin, long lasting hydration	Emulsion

Phospholipids

We create naturally derived, highly versatile phospholipids that are capable of delivering powerful benefits to the skin due to their biomimetic nature, such as exceptional moisturisation potential and the enhanced delivery of active ingredients.

women smiling with clear skin

Phospholipids are a type of lipid which possess a hydrophilic ‘head’ group and two hydrophilic ‘tails’. This amphiphilic nature enables them to form lipid bilayers, making them highly effective emulsifiers in personal care applications.

With excellent separation and purification technology, various lecithin and hydrogenated lecithin products are available to help create a variety of textures.

Lecithin
Lecithin is a versatile emulsifying agent used in cosmetic formulas. Typically derived from soy, sunflower and rapeseed, lecithin can be used to encapsulate key ingredients in skin care formulations, facilitating effective delivery to the surface of the skin.

Phosphatidylcholine
A purified phospholipid, phosphatidylcholine is a vital component of the cell membrane in all living organisms. It has a high capacity for water absorption, making it a very good water-binding agent and aids the delivery of actives to the surface of the skin.

Phospholipids Product Range:

Product Name	INCI Name	Benefits	Type
DS-SOYA PC94	Phosphatidylcholine	Stabilises the dosage forms Enhances skin moisture by forming liposome	Agglomerate
DS-SOYA HPC30	Hydrogenated Lecithin	Enhanced emulsifying effect Texture adjustment	Powder
DS-SUN PC65	Lecithin	Stabilises the dosage forms Non-GMO, environment-friendly emulsifier	Paste
DS-Soya HPC80	Hydrogenated Lecithin	Formulation stabilisation Excellent general purpose emulsifier	Powder

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Portfolio expansion: Tech & Nature combine for biotech success